These days it seems I spend half my engineering time just figuring out what kinds of connectors I need to buy, what their pinouts are, and how I am going to design an enclosure around them, good grief! There is something to be said about the ease of point to point wiring (except when you have to go back and debug 6 months later) Connecting to the Model S was no exception, based on what I had read my first avenue was trying to connect to the OBD-II port located under the steering wheel. Ftm 2006 Vista Patch on this page.

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Tiziano Terzani Un Indovino Mi Disse Ebook Reader here. Some of you may be asking why a car that produces no tailpipe emissions would need to a diagnostic connector designed around emissions testing? Good question, as with most things in the auto industry they didn't do it because it was fun (seatbelt's anybody?), federal law requires a port to be within 2 feet of the driver/steering wheel. So Tesla had to put one there, of course like most useless federal laws it doesn’t mandate that the OEM put out any useful data to it, in fact you could get away with just hooking up the 12V and GND plus any necessary emissions info (which is not the case for us) and have your own super-secret diagnostic connector elsewhere, but laziness prevails, so most OEM's just use the available free pins to output their CAN data, usually pins 6 and 14 for CAN high/low, though that depends on the type of vehicle and the standard it uses. As I found out the hard way, when you're build a paradigm shifting electric car from the ground up, you decided to take the hidden diagnostic connector route. My initial tests using a Beaglebone Black and TI's SN65HVD Series CAN transceivers ended in lots of colorful language and much head scratching, in short Tesla ain't putting out, at least on this connector.

Onward and upward! Step 2: Making the Real Diagnostic Connector Part 1. If at first you fail, try and try again After rooting around the TMC forums and some liberal Google searching (including images, very handy) I found that Tesla puts out their CAN bus info to a connector located behind the center cubby underneath the 17' touch screen (which you can access by giving a firm tug with both hands on opposite sides, see photos for more detail) I then found a pinout shown in the included picture from a project some Tesla Roadster owners had cooked up to allow them to access their cars vitals over SMS (see the link in the References section). These were the droids I was looking for, eager to see if my searching had been fruitful I thought to test the 12V and GND pins using my multimeter, which was a good idea and sure enough it showed 12V, then like the ham-fisted monkey that I am the two leads touched and shorted out, producing a nice arc followed by a puff of magic blue smoke, as a veteran of the magic smoke, I wasn't bothered until I noticed the drivers heads-up display was completely black, ugh oh. I remembered from some of my earlier reading that another adventurous Tesla owner had tapped into the same 12V port for power and pulled more current than the connector could handle, thankfully Tesla had put a fuse on the heads-up screen so instead of smoking a very expensive piece of kit, it just tripped one of the automotive fuses under the front access panel, my bacon was saved. Sadly I didn't have any 5A fuses on hand and no NAPA or Ripoffshack stores close by, so my MacGyver style patch involved using a 15A fuse I had handy for the 12V cigarette lighter port, everything worked just fine until I got one shipped. Step 3: Making the Real Diagnostic Connector Part 2.